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Posts from the ‘Walking’ Category

They shoot horses, don’t they?

Actually, I sincerely hope they don’t.  But this camera-shot horse skittering in the thick fog in the Chataignerie de Cantal last Autumn rather fits the prompt, blur in a way that pleases me.  Sitting, as we have been, seemingly for a life-time (though in reality just for a few days) in persistent drizzle and mizzle, the picture also serves to remind me that it is not always sunshine that enhances, but that mist and cloud shrouds can provide a mysterious glamour all of their own.

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PS:  On the eve of Easter, I have to hope that the Bunny won’t get lost in the fog, nor the Bells take a wrong turn in the obscuring mist for that would be a catastrophe, indeed.  Bonne Pâques a tous mes amies!

Wordless Wednesday …. Where The Wild Things Are

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Picture taken at Puy Morel in woods that wind down to La Rhue just before she flows into La Dordogne at Bort les Orgues in the Correze department of the Limousin

A freshly fallen, silent shroud of snow

I think I may need to apologise.  I’m sure the prompt ‘Fresh’ is supposed to encourage me to find a perfect picture of Spring but to me it just had to be linked to the line from Paul Simon’s song.  Maybe I’m not quite there in terms of Spring … it tends to be very brief and sudden here, as I noted last April in my post ‘You can cut all the flowers…’  It’s barely marked at all before Summer, in all her verdent green and technicolour splendour, steals centre stage sometime in May.  We get flowers, of course but it isn’t the English Spring I was used to before moving here.  And the snow is still coming at us.  Not much – I admit this picture was taken in the last days of February but it just seems to fit so well … I love the bright relief that fresh snow lends a landscape.

The chapel is called Notre Dame de la Fonte Sainte and sits in the Pays de Gentiane at about 1230 metres.  It is a place of pilgrimige marked by many crosses on the road that leads to it,  almost as though the visitor should crawl on his bare hands and knees, wearing a hair shirt and do the stations of the cross.  We felt much like staggering pilgrims having ascended from St Hippolyte, gotten lost and trudged through over-knee snow.  The Bean was stoic, asking to be put down when Two Brains tried to assist her in the most challenging parts, so that she could snow-snorkel her Olympic finest through the fresh drifts.  A racketer that we met at the high-point was visibly disgusted that we were putting the little creature through this misery and it was only later that we realised the bornes were in fact strategically placed to view the Chapel below from.  Perhaps we should repent – I think that’s what the Catholics who built the place would bid us do but I’m afraid we just laughed and enjoyed the moment.  And the view of this little gem sitting in her fresh white heaven was surely worthy of every taxing step even though we had shunned the carefully sculpted viewpoints …..

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PS: The song is ‘I am a Rock’ and, like the voice of those lyrics, I seem to be rather wanting to wall myself in more than usual at the moment but I would like to say that in addition to ‘my books and my poetry to protect me’, I am hugely grateful for the support given by those that read my posts.  Thank you and I promise I will stop being gloomy Eeyore very soon.

Gorgeosity and yumyumyum

February was all about the snow here.  It came thick and thicker and The Bean snow-snorkelled through the soft stuff and danced niftily on the icy crusts of the more exposed drifts.  For me, it was the ministry of silly walks as I picked my way over the compacted stuff only to sink thigh high and have to heave my seemingly hulking form onwards (note to self … get some rackets).  We still have snow on the mountains, of course but it’s mostly gone lower down.  For now.  It’s only March and it may return.  The snow poles will stay where they are for several weeks more.  This picture was taken walking at Lac de la Cregut in a break between blizzards the vivid orange of the sign, all of a sudden given beauty by the monochrome pallet created by the snow and the sky, a lighter shade of grey before the clouds begin to tinge with yellow against pure lead ready for the next dump ….    DSCF0843You can see lots of other responses to the title ‘Orange’ in the weekly photo challenge just here

 

PS:   The title?  Anthony Burgess,  ‘A Clockwork Orange’ – slightly more than tenuous but I like it.
       
      

Going to the chapel of love ….

DSCF8702I didn’t celebrate le fete de St Valentin this year.  Actually, I don’t ever celebrate it.  I always understood it was for wannabe lovers to declare their interest (anonymously) by the sending of a card or a gift to the object of their desire.  At school, a post box was positioned in the foyer and we could pay 5p to post a card which would then be delivered on the big day to the classroom of your crush.  You could send as many as you wanted, so some (admitedly including ever-hopeful me) would hedge their bets, all unsigned, the handwriting disguised and finished with a flourishing and mysterious X.  On the day, the cards would be delivered by a crack team of first years and I would affect nonchalance when year after year there was no card in the pile for me.

Clock forward all these decades and Two Brains is my Valentine every day.  Last summer we walked a glorious walk in the Cezallier to a little Chapel, originally built in the 13th century high high on a rocky outcrop looking over the Vallée de la Santoire and the Plateau du Limon.  Battered by the elements it was in a sorry state when in the 19th Century it was entirely rebuilt but houses a bell dating from the mid 1600s and a confessional of similar age and a truly resilient Madonna dating with the original chapel.   And the name of this lovely place – La Chappelle de St Valentine, naturally.

This piece is written in response to The Daily Press challenge to publish a photo demonstrating the Rule of Thirds.  You will find all the other entries here

PS:  The Victorians started another tradition which remained popular until the mid-20th Century.  The Vinegar Card was basically a chance to wittily, waspishly, waggishly and entirely socially acceptably slanderously rebuff, dismiss and humiliate the recipient.  I’m not ashamed to admit that in the past I could have sent one or two ….

He digs and he delves – you can see for yourselves

It’s been a while since I wrote anything more than a few lines to accompany a picture but – now there’s a thing … have I been away, or have I been home?  I think here is home so I must have been away but then again I was staying with my mother and spending Christmas with family so I must have been home because my definition of home was always where my family is.  And Two Brains made it by the skin of his teeth on Christmas Eve arriving 3 hours before we all sat down to Christmas Dinner which we do on Christmas Eve partly because we realised that one of our daughters was eating three Christmas dinners on Christmas Day and had to remain dry because she and her partner were driving to his mother, then his father and then me and then home (possibly to a turkey sandwich) and another has a fiance whose mother would fall on her own sword if her precious boy were not at her Christmas table (I say nothing) and partly because 25th December is Two Brains birthday.  So the simple solution is to follow the French lead and that is what we do leaving everyone, in theory, happy.    Anyway, enough familial bliss – I was in England.  Land of my birth.  And increasingly less familiar to me … I wonder if other ex-patriots experience this out of body-ness when visiting the old country, wherever that happens to be.

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I lived for years close to various points on the Ridgeway and walked regularly on the section from Streatley-on-Thames to Uffington.  When my parents moved to the place my mother still lives, I walked sections of it each weekend with my father and our dogs.  I have walked it with children, with friends, with dogs.  It is a very familiar path.  Two Brains and I and two dogs, because The Bean’s best friend Brian who belongs to my eldest daughter was staying too, walked a bit each day.

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Brian – a small dog with the sweetest heart

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The Bean – a tiny dog with a big heart

We walked somewhere between 6 and 12 km each time (the distance being un aller-retour, a return, to allow for leaving the car).  I wanted to walk this path full of memories with my husband and it was happy – windy, rainy, bitterly cold, foggy, sunny we had all weathers which makes us both happy.  Two small dogs and then just one, after Brian returned home, snootling and rootling and sniffing the air and the ground which is generally what makes a dog happy.  We would return to my mothers house after an hour or three soaked and muddy some days but we had a very contented time.  Except ….

Somewhere between  Wantage, once called Wanating and birthplace of King Alfred (he of the frazzled cakes) and Sparsholt we spied something on the fence ahead.  Moles.  I am very wed to moles.  I grew up in the village in Berkshire in which Kenneth Grahame lived the last 8 years of his life and he died there in 1932.  He attended the same school as my father in Oxford.  I, like so many children, grew up knowing and loving the anthropamorphasised animals he created. ‘The Wind in The Willows’ was read to me when I couldn’t read, then read and read and read when I could, and then again read to my own.  And Mole was my particular favourite – so thrilled with the world outside his dark tunnels, his portly little velvety form was one I longed to hug. I do understand that many find moles a nuisance.  They dig and they create earthmounds with positively ruthless efficiency and ruin many a lawn (that overwhelming obsession of the English, let’s not forget) and they don’t give a damn about crops in a field.  So long as the earth is brim full of worms they are happy chappies and will keep diggering on.  Actually here in Cantal I am convinced the moles are genetically modified – or at the very least pumping steroids … their mounds are immense!  We have them all over the right side of the lawn though oddly never the left.  The Bean is very keen to find one and is often found standing four square with nose poking down a hole in the top of a mound where the mole has come up out of his laberynth of tunnels early in the morning or at dusk.

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The thing about these moles though, in case you thought that they were some sort of genetic mutation that dwells above ground, the thing is that they were dead.  Hanging on the fence, tied with yellow binding.  To say the sight was gruesome is an understatement.  It was a sharp and frosty morning and everything had that eery beauty that comes when the only movement is the twinkling of the ice particles in the hazy sun trying to break through a shroud of cloud.  The moles too were frozen, their little black coats glinting with freezing moisture.  Stiff.  Cold.  Dead.  Unfortunately our Opinel (the ubiquitous knife in a huge variety of sizes, ours with a 4″ blade, that no Frenchman would be without) was in the car about 2 miles back so we couldn’t follow our hearts and at least cut the little creatures down and lay them somewhere dignified.  Out of sight of, incidentally, the many walkers, riders and particularly families with children who frequent the path.  I was disgusted.  Choked.  Angry actually.  For heavens sakes what is the point?  And yes, I do know that in days of yore the mole catcher would hang the moles as proof to the landowner of what he had earned and to ensure that he didn’t try and bill for same mole twice.  But this is 2015 (I think it was January 2nd) and I do not believe for one moment that any landowner now uses such feudal methods in fact I’m not convinced that there even are travelling mole catchers these days.  No – this was just some foul blood lusting individual or group who thought it would be clever to hang their barbaric catch out for all to see.  Or perhaps they were crass enough to think that they would put other moles off digging there … not understanding that they are blind. Before you shout me down – I actually found a thread on the internet that had me quite helpless … a thread about this very practice in which one person states that it is to put other moles off and another points out that they are blind.  Person one says ‘what – every single mole?  I don’t think so’ and the other patiently points out that they live underground.  Person one says ‘why?’ patience says ‘Because. They. Are. MOLES!’  As I live and breath it is entirely unbelievable.

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And now I am back home, because on reflection I know this is home and wherever my family are, they are always in my heart.  Here it is still hunting season – I have to be judicious when choosing my walks particularly at weekends because I don’t want to be shot.  And neither does The Bean.  The French have a reputation for shooting anything that moves but le chasse is strictly governed here.  And I live in an area far off the beaten track where undoubtedly folk could break the rules if they wanted to.  But they don’t.  The Ridgeway is a well walked path and I wish the Police success in catching the culprits of this heinous act if they so wish.  I know they try to stamp out illegal hare coursing but The Law says that you can only prosecute if you catch the perpetrators red handed.  Not for the first time in my life, I fear that The Law is an ass.

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Presumably this was aimed at the moles ….

 PS:  The following day we walked from Sparsholt to Uffington.  The White Horse here is the oldest chalk horse carved into a hillside in Britain and there is Dragon Hill which, legend has it and I like to believe is actually the body of the dragon slain by George himself.  And there is Uffington Castle … an iron-age hillfort.  We walked around it and I was heartened to see that the moles had invaded and clearly conquered the castle.  Sweet victory to the little men in black velvet as they diggory diggory delvet according to Beatrix Potter in Apply Dapply’s nursery rhymes from whence the title comes.

I do like a little bit of butter for my bread

This week The Daily Post gave ‘Express Yourself’ as their theme.  So I rootled about in my virtual picture library throwing things hither and thither, toying with a fountain in the Peterhof Gardens and a lily floating gently on a lake near home and then I remembered these glorious girls.  Standing on their volcanic plateau gazing with the intent interest that surely only a cow could muster when presented with Two Brains, The Bean and I wandering below them, and for all the world looking as though they are about to start boogying round their handbags.  And the lady on the left, tail waving outrageously in the sunshine – she is surely expressing herself with the most riotous abandon, though doubtless a bovine expert might like to point out that the thing she is about to express is a bouse de vache (look it up – its far prettier in French).

PS:  The title comes from The Kings Breakfast by A A Milne in which the King expresses himself with clarity but finds himself unheard  ….

What good is the warmth of summer

Living where I do, the winters are measured on a scale of cold to bitterly cold but when the sun shines, no matter what the actual temperature I feel warmed.  This picture was taken on a cold day in early Spring when our breath froze as it hit the air, the trees were bare of leaves and the snow still iced the high peaks ahead of us.  And yet I feel its warmth and as John Steinbeck said ‘what good is the warmth of summer without the cold of winter to give it sweetness’.

So there you have it, my offering for The Weekly Photo Challenge entitled Warmth.

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I used to be Snow White, but I drifted ….

Twinkle.  Nature twinkles all the time.  The water, rushing pell-mell over rocks, sparkles in the sun; the leaves dripping with frost gleem outrageously as my breath freezes in the early morning and the grass wet with dew glistens to greet me on warmer days.  But I love this line from Mae West, and we have snow on the high ground aplenty, and its nearly Christmas, and I’m dreaming.  So here is my picture of snow drifting, twinkling down to the Lac de la Cregut in December.

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Only the dead have seen the end of war

Isn’t it funny how you come across things just at the right time.  Or maybe it’s just that one can make things fit when one needs or wants to.  Yesterday was 11th November.  Remembrance Day (or Veterans Day if you are in the USA or Canada and I imagine territories which I am too uneducated to know about).  It can have escaped no-one’s notice that this year marks centenary of the start of World War 1.  La Grande Guerre.  Yesterday, therefore the world stood and still silent to mark with gravity the huge death toll of the following four years.   And much was written and much will be written.  Rightly.

After 11:00 we set off to the village of Anglards de Salers south and a tiny bit east of home by about 45 kilometres.  After a light picnic we toddled off on our walk and passed the little Chateau de Trémolière making a note to return and visit when it is open (outside of the big cities and the heavy hitting sites, many places of interest are closed from Toussaint to Easter in France). It houses a  collection of Aubusson Tapestries, fabric and needlecrafts are passion of mine and besides it has the oddest tower I have ever seen.  We also passed the 12th Century Eglise de Saint Thyrse which features on the list of Monuments Historique de France and made similar mental notes and then an ancient stone fountain which represented the only water in the village until 1904 when the two fountains in the middle of the square were built.  The plaque on the now dried up ‘font’ declares that those Anglardiens who exodussed to Paris would recognise one another by statement that they had been ‘baptised in the stone fountain’.  The connection to Paris is something I will write of another time … the historic links between the Auvergne in general and Cantal in particular to Paris are fascinating and unexpected.

As we walked the leaves danced in the wind.  It was a classic Autumn day – north of nippy, the air clear as anyone’s bell and the views from the 800 or so metres up above the Vallée du Mars absolutely spectacular.   In good spirits we came across a cross.  A stone cross with the figure of Christ depicted, as is typical in the area, quite tiny with a disporportioned head and massively oversized hands.  What stopped us in our tracks was the panneau next to it.  According to legend (and legend, as my children were always reminded is a story so old that nobody can remember whether its true or not), there was a battle fought on this land between Attila The Hun and the Gallo-Roman forces led by Flavius Aetius (Roman) and Theodoric I (Gaul).  This was in the 5th Century.  Hundreds of years later at the turn of the 18th Century a group of men from the pays came across what they believed to be Attila’s encampment and a dispute broke out when they found a cross there. This stone cross.  Presumably the argument arose as to who could rightfully lay claim to it.  Good old compromise prevailed and agreement was reached that it would be placed between La Mars and L’Auze hence it has stood where we happened upon it for the last 300 years.

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That’s the history or the legend but what stood out to me, was the body count in 451 AD.  120,000 men.  In one battle.  Of course I don’t have accurate figures for what the  populations of France, Italy and Germany were at the time but I am pretty sure that they were a tiny fraction of the populations in the early 20th Century.  Fifteen hundred years, ago all that loss of life.  One hundred years ago all that loss of life.  Present day all this loss of life.  I am but a helpless little voice but maybe if all the helpless little voices gather together – maybe we could try to give to peace a chance and prove Plato, whose words I have annexed for my title, wrong.

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PS:  When we got home and did a little intersleuthing on the net, we realised that this picture is not simply of a rock but of the ruins of a 5th Century fortress which stood on top and around it – you can see some of the stone-work in the foreground.  Sometimes you have to look a little harder to see the fact that war has been all around us for all time.